Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Capalbio

There is this lovely, little secret beach in tuscany. It's part of a World Wildlife Foundation Oasis called Lago di Burano. The best thing about this black + glass sand beach where the sand is so sparkely, is that it's empty. Italy has some really nice beaches scattered along its coast, but the problem is that they are so very overcrowded. Really, it can be overwhleming. This place is extra wonderful because it's so mellow and secret... shhhhh (wait, did i just spoil the secret?!?!).....

helping to clean up the beach... To get to the Lago di burano oasis, drive north of rome for an hour and a half and then you arrive in this little town, Capalbio. There is a parking lot in this town, that is quite well indicated, where a WWF van from around 1970, complete with rickety everything and no shocks comes every so often (but mind you, not THAT often) and picks people up from said parking lot and drops them off at the beginning of a trail which leads them through an estuary (top photo) straight to the beach. It's this part of the "getting there" that I think turns all the Italians off. That's why it's so empty. Sure it's a bit of a hassle to wait for the van, but it's not that big of a deal if you time yourself well and know the schedule.

So we decided to go up on saturday night after our flight over rome and stayed at a campsite in Chiarone Scalo (the town next to Capalbio). The old camping village in Capalbio Scalo had stopped allowing tents for some unknown reason. The chiarone scale campsite was o.k., but it was very expensive, plus they made you park really far from your tent and lug all your stuff to the tent. (o.k. so they provided a wheelbarrow and a golf cart but they were being shared by about 200 people and obviously not available when we needed it!). The campsite did have it's own beach which was pretty nice, but we decided to go to the oasis as it's just beyond "nice".

peppe at the barme at the campsite waiting for the coffee to kick in...
So the site was fine, but the highlight was its proximity to this great restaurant called "La Dogana di Capalbio". We kinda ended up there by chance, but were so surprised to find that it was this beautiful place with really, really good seafood and fish! lucky us!!!
Peppe at La Dogana
We had a great time, even if we got stuck in some merciless traffic on sunday coming back to rome... i still highly recommend going to the lago di burano beach and la dogana restaurant.

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